Looking for a budget router for a home (3 floors, 3000sq feet, 11 devices), because my current router is utter garbage

(bad range and doesnt support nat loopback, which makes me have to mess with dns far more than necesary, and all the messing around gets wiped out when the router restarts or unplugs itself and my computer caches the external dns server, i hate it so much please i need to get rid of it)

edit: it only has to cover maybe 1500sq feet, not 3000

  • It needs to be suitable for a small homelab. (ie: 4 ethernet ports and a functional webui)
  • preferably supports openwrt or some other open-source software, and i - would prefer to spend less than 70 CAD.
  • Wifi 6 is uneccesary as most devices in the house dont support it.

Thank you in advance!

  • abhibeckert@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    Start with a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X. It’s a tiny little box that’s easily hidden away and forgotten about, with five Ethernet ports (one for the internet, four for your home). The web interface is extensive and has every feature you could ever want and thousands of other features you can safely ignore.

    It does not do wifi - and that’s fine. Because for wifi to work well, the antenna has to be in a central location where you probably don’t want half a dozen ethernet cables, power supplies, etc etc.


    You can use it with almost any wifi access point (or even a full wifi router, configured to not do any routing), but I recommen done of these: https://ui.com/us/en/wifi/flagship

    They have five current models on that page but there are more:

    • U6 Enterprise - designed to be used by several hundred people at the same time. Forget that one.
    • U7 Pro - the latest flagship Wifi 7 model (you said you don’t even care about wifi 6, so probably forget that too)
    • U6 Pro - their previous Flaghsip, with Wifi 6. Probably overkill for you but worth considering
    • U6 Long Range - basically the same device but with a physically larger antenna to extend the range over 2,000 feet under ideal conditions
    • U6+ - a confusingly named cheaper variant that is also smaller. I would buy this one — not because it’s cheaper, but because it’s the smallest one.

    They are all ceiling mounted. Ceiling mounts are the way to go. Put them in the middle of a large central room in your home. It will provide perfect 5Ghz coverage within your home and your devices will seamlessly switch to 2.4Ghz when you leave the home (it’ll probably work on your entire back/front yard and maybe even a bit down the street… even if you don’t buy the “Long Range” model.

    If your house has walls (or floors) that make it a faraday cage, then you will need to buy more than one access point. Often only one is needed but they are designed to work with multiple if you require that (potentially thousands, these access points are used for football stadiums, music festivals, sky scrapers, etc).

    If you can’t drill a hole in your ceiling, then buy a thin (flat profile) white ethernet cable use 3M adhesive strips to attach it the cable and wifi access point to your ceiling, nobody will notice unless they look up. You might need to patch up the paint when you move out but ceiling paint is dirt cheap and very forgiving (because it’s matte paint).

    If you refuse to go with a ceiling mounted access point, Ubiquiti has wall mounted and bench top variants. But they’re not as good - ceilings are usually made of thin flimsy material while walls are usually solid structures. That makes a big difference when it comes to real world wireless performance and reliability.

    It’s a bit more than your budget, but I’d argue it’s money well spent. My EdgeRouter X and old Unifi access point are approaching 7 years old and they have never even been restarted except when we’ve had power failures or when I’ve moved house… totally worth the money. The only problem I ever had is about 5 years in I forgot the password and wanted to change a setting… I had to do a factory reset. No biggie.

    But if that’s too expensive, you should be able to find older models of the same hardware (especially predecessors to the U6+). Like I said, mine is 7 years old and working perfectly. I could see myself still using it in another 7 years - anything where I need really high performance is connected to the EdgeRouter X with an ethernet cable.

    PS: one of the ethernet ports on your EdgeRouter X is a “PoE OUT” port. Plug your Unifi wifi access point into that port, and you can toss the power supply that came with the access point in a drawer or just the rubbish bin. The EdgeRouter X will provide power over the ethernet cable.


    Note: some Ubiquiti hardware is garbage, and the company seems to be going downhill lately. But they still have excellent products

    • mox@lemmy.sdf.org
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      8 months ago

      EdgeRouter X

      More info on that model:

      • Supports hairpin NAT
      • WAN throughput limit is nearly 1Gbps (outbound + inbound combined) when not using CPU-heavy features like advanced buffer management or VPN
      • Stock OS is a Vyatta variant (Debian-based)
      • Has an OpenWRT port, which might be useful if Ubiquiti ever stops updating the stock OS
      • abhibeckert@lemmy.world
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        8 months ago

        WAN throughput limit is nearly 1Gbps

        In my experience, exactly 1Gbps. It has 1Gbps network ports, and it maintains that throughput even with “advanced buffer management” / etc enabled.

        I’m sure it slows own if you have thousands of people using it, but OP isn’t planning to do that and anyone who is should buy one with more than four LAN ports anyway. This is a $60 router. If you’re working with thousands of people, you should spend more than that.

        • mox@lemmy.sdf.org
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          8 months ago

          It slows down when using CPU-heavy features, even with a single user, because the CPU isn’t very fast. You can find multiple confirmations of this if you read through the community forum posts from the first couple years after it was released.

          This doesn’t matter for things that can be offloaded, though, like basic routing and NAT. To be clear, it is an excellent value.

          • r00ty@kbin.life
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            8 months ago

            It’ll likely be like most routers I’ve seen. If hardware offloading is possible it’ll have cpu to spare at 1gbps. If it isn’t (mostly qos or other packet marking processes), then the cpu will get maxed and thruput drops.

    • Blisterexe@lemmy.zipOP
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      8 months ago

      thanks for the suggestion, but its both over my budget and doesnt support wifi, i will definitely get it if i get more money and want to expand my homelab though

  • cmnybo@discuss.tchncs.de
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    8 months ago

    That’s a rather large area to cover with a single router. You will need multiple access points if you want decent speeds.

    • Blisterexe@lemmy.zipOP
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      8 months ago

      oh it doesnt need to cover the whole thing, just a smaller part of it (also i already have an extension)

      edit: when i said smaller part its because a big part of the house does not require fast wifi, so we just use an extender for that part

  • Shady_Shiroe@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    A cheap (or used) mesh system is better than any router + extender crap, especially if you have a modem router combo that can’t even output decent speeds 10 feet away in straight view, at least this is my experience with it.

    • Blisterexe@lemmy.zipOP
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      8 months ago

      any recommendations for one? Its hard to cut through all the marketing. (also my main issue with my current router is the terrible software, not the range)

      • xonigo@lemm.ee
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        8 months ago

        I have some tp link deco mesh units I got refurbished from the official tp link eBay store. They work great and have good coverage. But it’s not open source and you need to use their phone app the manage them - but their app isn’t too bad. It does everything I need it to do

  • explore_broaden@midwest.social
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    8 months ago

    I have two Dynalink DL-WRX36 routers flashed with OpenWRT, and they work really well. They’re great routers for the price ($80 USD), the specs are a lot closer to well known brands that are a lot more expensive. I’ve had them for about a year with no issues. See also https://openwrt.org/toh/dynalink/dl-wrx36. I got it because I wanted a lot of range, and it seems to work for that.

  • shortwavesurfer@monero.town
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    8 months ago

    There’s no way you’re doing this with a single router for that kind of area. You would need at least two.

    • Blisterexe@lemmy.zipOP
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      8 months ago

      copy of reply above:

      oh it doesnt need to cover the whole thing, just a smaller part of it (also i already have an extension)

  • just_another_person@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    Sounds like more of your issue is software. Why not try flashing your current device with one of the open firmware projects first and see if that doesn’t at least make the hardware useful?

    • Blisterexe@lemmy.zipOP
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      8 months ago

      i would, but it isnt supported by anything, its an obscure router that isps like to give you (CODA-4860)

  • iiGxC@slrpnk.net
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    8 months ago

    Maybe something like a used r7000 with freshtomato? If it’s in the middle of the middle floor maybe? Idk

  • Supercritical@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    Check out gear by GL.iNet. They’re pretty cheap, albeit low specced, but they come with OpenWRT flavor preinstalled. They’re an unbelievable value proposition and I’ve been running mine with no noticeable issues since September. For you I would look at something like their GL-AX1800. Poke around on their store, but that AX1800 is just shy of $100 in the US.

    I got mine specifically because of my home lab set up and them being recommended by my work’s cybersec manager.

  • Extras@lemmy.today
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    8 months ago

    Top of my head: like a Linksys MR7340 hydra should have enough ram and storage for openwrt for a few years iirc but only 3 Ethernet port so a switch might be needed. Think its 50 USD rn but I’ll have to double check that. Another option would be like a used Linksys AC2200