Thank you everyone for taking time to help out. While looking for keyboards, I’ve found a great deal on a new Keychron C3 Pro at Amazon for around $30. It’s a wired keyboard, but it’s got hot swappable brown switches and I figured there’s no way I’d find something better to dip my toes in this hobby.
And I’m really glad I did! The feel and sound of it is just so much better from my regular keyboard it’s not even funny.
I’ve got some sample switches and o-rings in the mail to further dampen the sound but I’m very happy with my purchase.
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All those really sweet compact keyboards are super sexy and I want one. But the ones I like are both:
- very expensive
- have windows exclusive software
I’m not even sure mechanical keyboards are for me, to be honest. I don’t type that much, and the keyboard I have - a Logitech wave ergonomic keyboard - suits me, except for the humongous size and the noise (I do a lot of video calls and it gets distracting to my interlocutors).
From my research, a QMK/VIA 65% keyboard would be ideal. The VIA part would allow me to configure the few extra keys and layouts so I can make the most of the keys I’ll have. And it’s Linux compatible. However, it seems the controllers for VIA keyboards make them significantly more expensive. Then there’s the noise issue. The click clack, while tactile satisfying, is a no go for me.
I went down the rabbit hole and to find something that has a chance of suiting me, the cost quickly balloons above $200, and for something which I don’t know if I’ll like. If at least I knew it wouldn’t be too loud I might justify forking that kind of money.
Is there a keyboard for me? How can I tell if it’s going to be too loud? Or should I just give up that search and go for a normie tenkeyless keyboard?
Keychron’s V2 (65%) might work for you as a good intro. The Barebone Knob option comes without switches and keycaps, so you can test out a few switches ahead of time, perhaps with a keytester set. For keycaps, you are best off just buying a ‘clone’ set from Aliexpress or Amazon, if you’re trying to get decent quality at a cheap price.
In total, I would expect this setup to cost around $110 before shipping costs and tax.
Thanks! The price difference to a fully assembled one is $15. Wouldn’t it be cheaper to get the assembled one and just change the switches? Or are the stock key caps not worth it?
Switch prices can range quite a lot, since there is a decently large enthusiast market for switches. However, I took into consideration that you mentioned you don’t like to buy things you won’t use (the stock switches). I figured it would be better to suggest that you try some switches before you pay for any in bulk.
As for the keycaps, they are not bad. They’re not amazing either, but for what you pay ($15 additional for switches and keycaps) you aren’t gonna beat the price. I just imagine most people are happier having some level of visual customization, and you can’t really see the switches unless you have a keyboard with “floating switches”.
By the way, if you are comfortable keeping the keycaps but swapping out switches, you may also be interested in the Keychron V8. It has somewhat of the ergonomic layout of your current keyboard. It’s only available with blue switches, which are clicky and wouldn’t be appropriate for working.
Sorry that this is getting so long, but one more comment: if you decide to go the barebones route, you will need to make sure you find a keycap set that has 65% compatability. Keys that are frequently missing include the bottom row cluster to the right of the spacebar, and the far right column of keys as well.
Oh don’t apologize, and thank you for all the tips!
And while we’re at it, I’ve had a hard time finding third party key caps for the Alice layout. Is there a better keyword to search for or are they really rare?
I don’t think there is a “standard” for alice layouts, but you definitely will have to check for key compatability. I found Keychron V8 keycap sizes on their site here, so you should generally look for keycap sets that show you what additional keys are included, such as in this listing and this listing.
You also need to keep in mind the rows (R1, R2, etc.) if you want the profile of each row of keycaps to be consistent. Worst case scenario, you can manually measure the length of each keycap by comparing to 1u keys and known lengths (i.e. standard RShift is 2.75u on ANSI keyboards, LShift is 2.25u, etc.), but that gives you no insight on profile.
Last but not least, I have seen people buy monochromatic keycap sets in a specific profile, such as Cherry profile, and then buying a second smaller set of supplemental keycaps in an accent color (also in Cherry profile). This usually costs more and can lead to mismatched keycaps if not careful or unlucky.